Three lights are controlled from inside the dome: (1) An outside light for the deck, which is also controlled from a switch on the wall inside the door to Curtis (turn OFF!), (2) a regular white light inside the dome (OFF during observing), and (3) a red observing light (this can be ON while observing). There is also a very small red flashlight to use while observing. Get used to working in the dark. It takes about 30 minutes for your eyes to become dark-adapted and you restart the clock every time to turn on the lights again.
Controls for opening/closing the slit are on the wall of the dome. Be careful opening the slit - if you open it too far, it may become jammed! It "coasts" a bit after you stop running the motor, so stop before it's fully open. The pull handle is only to be used (gently) for observing objects near the zenith. One person pulls the handle to release the latch while the other carefully toggles the slit motor. When closing the dome, gently lower the upper part of the slit until it re-latches on the extension.
Rotate the dome using the motor control on the wall. As the dome rotates, the power cord swings across the dome. WATCH IT and do not allow the cord to catch on anything (the telescope, the finder scope, you).
The eyepieces are expensive and relatively delicate, because they have several optical elements and their glass is soft. Please be gentle with them. No juggling.
There are two "nosepieces" for the camera, 1.25 inch and 2.0 inch. On the 5 inch and 8 inch, the camera connects to the telescope with the 1.25 inch nosepiece by sliding into the eyepiece tube, held in by only a thumbscrew. On the 16 inch, use the 2.0inch nosepiece on the camera, and secure the camera into the backend of the microfocuser using two thumbscrews. Be very careful not to drop the camera!
Don't drop the camera or leave it on the bus unless you have a few kilobucks you'd like to part with.
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Last update: 20 September 2007